{{futureEnquiries.length}}
Valerie recently stayed at Bucaco Sud Guest House in Betty's Bay. She had a wonderful time relaxing and unwinding next to the ocean.
Coming off of several months of deadlines, administrative nightmares and a cross-country transition, I was in need of a place to push pause and take stock. What better place to do so than at Bucaco Sud, in Betty's Bay. Set up against the majestic Kogelberg mountain range, what will first strike you about Bucaco Sud are not the just the views across the ocean, but the serene sense of quiet and stillness that has seeped into every fibre of the place. If you're needing a place to rest and recalibrate, this just might be it.
Not one to lose even a few hours of a hard-earned long weekend, I set out from Cape Town early and made my way at a leisurely pace up the southern coast. I couldn't resist stopping in at Bikini Beach Books in Gordon's Bay. If room upon room stacked floor to ceiling with books is your idea of a restful afternoon, then be sure to stop by and stock up. But be warned, as one reviewer put it, "If you aren't fond of chaos, best drive on by. However, if the challenge of finding something super special among the many crooked stacks and towering shelves appeals, you will probably be rewarded handsomely!"
Armed with several books, I took off again up the winding coastal road. My eyes were drawn between the texture and colour of the fynbos on my left and the allure of catching site of a pod of whales on my right. I decided to drive slowly enough to savour the view, but not too slow as to exasperate the locals - a good tip to bear in mind if you take this route! Mid-afternoon I arrived at Bucaco Sud, was welcomed by Beatie, the warm and friendly manager of the house, and shown to my room. With two twin beds, the mountain-facing room was clean and well-appointed and I immediately noticed some of the signs of Beatie's attention to detail - a characteristic evident throughout Bucaco Sud. From the tea and coffee in-room, to the lavender sprigs on the bed, Beatie's love for what she does is clear throughout. Intrigued by what the other rooms held I took a stroll through the vacant ones. If you're planning a trip with a loved one then be sure to ask for the Southern Right, which has a view of both mountain and sea, and it's own en-suite Victorian bath.
Although tempted by the thought of an afternoon fire in the communal lounge area, I set out instead to explore the surrounds. In particular, I was interested in finding a suitable vlei or lake to try out my new paddle ski. Heading towards Hermanus (be warned, it's further than you might think), I took every side road and detour I could that hinted at the idea of still waters. Feeling a little like Goldilocks - too small, too choppy, no place to launch - I took an unpaved road down to the mouth of the Palmiet River and vowed to return the next day to try out my paddling! Then, on to Hermanus for a slow afternoon of whale watching. As dusk fell I found myself astounded and not for the first time that day. Where else in the world would you get to enjoy R20 cocktails ("I'll take two Margarita's please!"), all the while watching whales breach as the sunset paints the sky and the moon rises slowly over the sea?
The next morning, Beatie prepared a full hot breakfast for me, served in the dining room overlooking the rugged coast. After a light drizzle passed, I set out to the Palmiet River where I had one of the most profound experiences of my life. As I paddled on this solitary lagoon without a soul in sight, I came upon a flock of flamingos who in one accord rose as I approached. I sat in awe as 200 orange and pink glories took flight in wave upon wave above my head. What more was there to do than drink it all in?
On Beatie's advice I stopped in at the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens. Set in the middle of the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, it consists of 10 hectares of cultivated fynbos garden and 190.5 hectares of pristine natural fynbos. Did I mention it boasts a wedding venue too?
After a quiet afternoon spent reading and sipping red wine in front of the fire back at Bucaco Sud, I made my way over to The Tides restaurant just a few kilometres down the street. Several locals had sung the praises of "the best restaurant in town", and my lamb shank with herbed mashed potato certainly lived up to the reviews. These are people who know how to combine sterling service with sublime food.
Sunday morning (after another hearty and beautifully presented farm-style breakfast), I took one last walk down to the shore, walking along the Hangklip-Kleinmond boardwalk which hugs the coast down to the Palmiet Beach. I lingered as long as I could before turning home-wards with the sand still between my toes. After driving past the Pottery Gallery several times over the previous few days, my curiosity finally got the better of me and I stopped in. Although "John the Potter" was out, his father - "John the Baptist", as he introduced himself - showed me around, introducing me to some of the beautiful work of local artists, taking pride in the name his son has built for himself, and all the while cracking jokes. I don't know about John the Potter, but I'd have tea and scones with John the Baptist any day!
The enchantment of the Whale Coast is still lingering. It gently seduces you to slow down, to take notice, to have conversations with strangers at the restaurant, the guest house, the gallery, the gardens or down by the shore. To rest and to recalibrate. To meander and marvel. And, if you come from Cape Town, the winding coastal road back to the city reminds you all the way just how close this piece of heaven really is!
To find out more about Bucaco Sud Guest House and to book a weekend away in Betty's Bay, click here.
