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As you turn off the N1 just before Laingsburg and drive into Matjiesfontein you will see, on your left, a Union Jack flying high above the dusty Karoo. Very quickly you are welcomed into a world from a bygone era. It takes about a minute to drive from one side of the town to the other, but this unique little town is full of character and unique beauty.
I had never visited this small Karoo town, despite passing it regularly on journeys up-country. My dad would sing "die trein na Matjiesfontein" (the train to Matjiesfontein) as we passed by, referencing a song well outside of my era.
There weren't any passing trains when we were there, but we did learn about the history of this very unique railway town. It was founded in 1878 when a railway line was established between Cape Town and the diamond fields of Kimberley. The town was only a small depot until a Scotsman called James Douglas Logan bought property in Matjiesfontein and opened a refreshment station.
He moved to this Karoo town as he had lung problems, and the town was popular with those who came to "enjoy the dry air" - at one point there was even a Victorian spa and health resort in the town. Just outside of Matjiesfontein we found a small cemetery where George Lohmann was buried. His epitaph reads "one of the greatest all-rounders the world has ever known". It turns out that George Lohmann had moved to the Karoo town of Matjiesfontein for health reasons, but in his day had been one of the most prolific all-rounders in the history in the game of cricket. As a big cricket fan this really interested me.
As we had arrived we saw the old London bus taking people on a tour of the town. It's a pity we missed the tour, although the town is small enough to tour it on foot. Matjiesfontein is a national monument and every effort has been made to keep its Victorian charm. You can really get a sense of what life must have been like when the town was growing and being developed.
After our stroll about we then went into the Laird's Arms Pub for lunch. After 3-hours in the car it was great to settle down for a nice bite to eat. Our waiter, Alrick, was dressed in traditional Victorian outfit with red hat and jacket. We got chatting with him and found out that he had grown up in Matjiesfontein and was now working there with his family. I asked if he enjoyed living in this tiny town, to which he responded "dis die selfde plek, maar daar's verskillende gesigte elke dag" (it's the same place, but there's new faces every day).
Matjiesfontein is a real jewel in the middle of the Karoo, and definitely worth a stop. It's simple and small, but that's the Karoo way. I wonder if Alrick hasn't found something beautiful in the relaxed town of Matjiesfontein where nobody is in a rush or worried about traffic. There is something about the Karoo and its contented people that make you think a bit differently about the rush of city life.
If you're looking for somewhere to stay near Matjiesfontein you can look at staying at the Wagendrit Lodge, or browse the other listings in the Central Karoo.
